More questions !

[Graham]

I spotted your advert in the latest NGS journal (6/15), and my interest meter went to sky high.

I am in the process of designing and building an exhibition layout for the model railway club I belong to, those of us using n gauge in the club want this layout to be as prototypical as possible, and your code 40 sounds better than anything else I've seen.

• You mention that the track once assembled is fine in general for stock manufactured in the last ten years, is this the case for Continental and Japanese stock too ?
• They layout will be in the region of 12' x 3' and will involve two helix and a lot of seen track, what is the minimum radius you would advise using for your track.
  
• Despite featuring it on your video, I cannot see anywhere to purchase the blade filing jig
  
• What is your lead time on deliveries, and does the price include postage, if so, do you discount for large orders.
  
• No fishplates seem to be available, does this mean that track is joined via copper clad PCB
• Are the turnouts comparable to the Peco long turnout, or do I need to allow more length. ( I will be using Anyrail, and your track isn't listed)
• Do you consider DCC  Concepts point motors to be a good way to operate the turnouts.
• Once made is it best to fit the track, and how do you reccommend fixing it, ( we will be using 9mm ply as the baseboard), the track will probably sit on Woodland scenics foam bed.

 

I will probably think of more as time goes on, we as a group of N gaugers are trying our best to support the small manufacturers and dealers, really to show people that you can build a great layout without going to the box shifters.

[Graham]

Over a week now and no reply, I wish I'd seen the tumbleweed blowing through this place before I got my hopes up.

Pity because it looks to be a good system, and a good introduction into building your own track.

I wonder how many other prospective customers have fallen by the wayside because of the lack of support ?

[Wayne Kinney]

Hi Graham,

I must apologies for my lack of presence on this forum. I must admit to having my main forum activity over on the N Gauge Forum, on the thread where this whole fiNetrax project started.

My main point of contact is through the email address on the website [e-mail] which I usually reply within 24 to 48 hours.

To try and answer your questions:

I only have experience with UK stock/models so I would not be able to advise much here. My perception is that Continental & Japanese stock seems ahead of the game compared to UK models, but this is only my personal observation from reading and not from hands on experience, I'm afraid.

Regarding minimum radius, the restricts are the same of using standard peco - the restrictions are more with the stock you are running.

The Switch Blades now come pre milled/filed with each kit, so the switch Blade filing jigs are now removed and no longer produced. I will soon be making pre milled switch blades available separately also.

Postage is £6.50 for 1st class royal mail. Lead time is usually a week or so but I am trying to reduce this down, this month.

The method of laying/joining track is the same as do the 2mm scale association – actually no rail joiners! Rail is simple butt up to the next length. Although I am researching the possibility of manufacturing tiny fish plates, Code 40 bullhead rail is probably too small for them, plus it would ruin the look.

FiNetraX turnouts use prototypical geometry B6, B8 etc - Peco does not so it's hard to compare. Each turnout kit page has a downloadable template that can be printed at 100% scale.

Yes the DCC Concepts point motors or any slow acting motor should be suitable. Servo operation is also another good option.

Regarding fixing track to the baseboard, because fiNetraX timber bases and code 40 rail is so thin (to keep it somewhat to scale) means that they need a firm flat surface to adhere to, making sure that the turnout remains totally 'flat'. If a turnout is built, you will notice, because of the thinness, that the base my 'curl' a little and not be truly 'flat'. Again, this is because the components are so thin to keep to scale. I would not recommend a soft foam underlay as this would not ensure that the turnouts are laid flat, which is important for good reliable running. Fixing method is a personal preference, but I like to use thin double sided tape to fix to the baseboard, and then ballasting will give the final adhesion.

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